Quadra Island Rock Climbs - Updates
Following are updates and corrections to the 2018 edition of Quadra Island Rock Climbs, including grade confirmations, new routes and general corrections.
Introduction
Correct references to 'North' Gowlland Harbour Road - there is now a sign officially calling it Upper Gowlland Harbour Road
Manzanita WallL
page 28
EMANZIPATION is 5.10a and has had 6 bolts added for leading.
There's now a single bolt bottom anchor at the shared start of Manzlaughter and Emanzipation.
Black Crag
page 33
Black Magic has had the pitons replaced with a total of 8 bolts and rappel rings at the anchor (the last bolt and anchor shared with Black Widow) .
Great Wall
page 39
STAIRCASE TO HEAVEN is 55m in length.
page 40
MEANDARIN can now be reached easily by climbing the first 15m of TAISHAN.
MEANDARIN goes at 5.10d. There is a rappel ring anchor at the original start now, this allows the easy lower part of Taishan to be climbed as a stand alone climb and is useful for a rappel descent from the TAISHAN pitch 3 anchor.
Jumping Frog Wall
page 41 - Jumping Frog Wall
Hippie now has 8 bolts for leading and gets *** 5.9 More details and updated topo below.
page 44
Chi: now has rappel ring anchor
Yin: the first pitch now has 4 bolts for leading and the route icon can be considered blue.
The Far East
page 48 - The Far East
Enlightenment: the anchor at the top of the second pitch is now equipped with rappel rings.
page 49 - The Far East
Arch Anemone: FA: Allan Ramsay, Andrew Schissler 30 April, 2018 confirmed at 10+
Triad FA: Allan Ramsay, Andrew Schissler 30 April, 2018 confirmed at 11-
The Portal
page 58 & 59 - The Portal,
Tribute is confirmed at 5.7, Tick Magnet Direct (up the short prow) is 5.8, Black Ram goes at 10- and has 4 bolts. Star Happy should be graded 5.5.
Keystone Crag
page 63 - Keystone Crag,
Throw Away The Key now has 6 bolts for leading and rappel ring anchor: 10c
Also in the description, the corner to the left isn't easier!
Horizon Wall
page 73
HORIZON is 55m in length.
Yardarm Bluff
page 74 - Yardarm Bluff
Chocolate Lily and Over the Yardarm both have rappel rings at the anchor now and the unlisted anchor shown in the photo topo on the left is now a rappel ring anchor for Loose Change and Trad-gically Gripped
Lake View Crag
page 101 - Photo-topo
The route icon for MP - Malpractice should be blue, it's a sport route.
The route icon for RM - Rigor Mortis should be red, it's a trad route.
page 103 - Verdict
Has been cleaned up, led as a trad route and confirmed at 5.8.
page 103 - Coroner's Report
Has been cleaned up bolted for leading and confirmed at 5.8.
